Showing posts with label Welcome to Los Angeles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Welcome to Los Angeles. Show all posts

Friday, September 14, 2007

Oh, Antonio


The Riot Squad's treatment of Antonio Villaraigosa makes Los Angeles magazine. Chivas USA gets a mention, too, as Antonio's favorite team.

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

The Puck is going on

Dear Posh and Becks,

Spago wouldn't normally be considered the local joint of a neighborhood, but then again, Beverly Hills isn't a typical neighborhood. Even before you guys moved in, the place had more star wattage than perhaps any other area in the world.

Yet all joints, in whatever locale, have that odd feeling of permanence and familiarity, beyond any fad of the moment food craze.

What might be a little strange is that Spago started off with something of a gimmick - the designer pizzas. But chef Wolfgang Puck had the quality behind the innovation to last.

As far as making this one of my reviews of the 99, when I originally was going to focus on the cheap places on the list you guys might miss, OK, I'll cop to knowing someone who works there - Spago isn't exactly in a reporter's regular price range.

Since the original Spago in Hollywood closed down, the Bevery Hills restaurant is the senior of Puck's restaurants, and I think he has fun changing the menu around.

For example, the appetizer I enjoyed while I was there, stuffed lettuce leaves, isn't even on the current menu.

Not to worry. The pizzas still are. I had the one with artichokes. I skipped the entre, not only because it's expensive (knowing someone gives me an excuse to go, but not a free meal) but because I'd been told to leave room for Sherry Yard's famous deserrts.

The pizza was perfect - somehow much more intriguing and exotic than one could think a staple like pizza could be. I've eaten pizza all my life, yet at Spago, it seems like a new dish. Good stuff.

The dessert was lucious - a "chocolate purse" of rich filling folded inside a crepe topped with powdered sugar and raspberries.

Vicki should like it here - it's one of the few places in LA that people dress up for. Nothing too fancy, but the guys usually wear jackets, for example.

The dining room has oddly low ceilings at certain points, but there's a colorful glass wall that plays off the interesting art on the walls. The service at Spago is also impeccable.

The Beverly Hills locals also know that Spago will cater to regulars. There's a bunch of off-the-menu options, and even if a dish has disappeared from the menu, the kitchen will usually make it for a fan of that recipe. Plus, there's so many celebrities there, you'll likely meet friends, even if you didn't plan a date.

Final recommendation: Go, this place was made for you guys. Even if you're just running out for lunch, the kids will like the pizza.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Cielito Lindo

Dear Posh and Becks,

I have to say that I enjoyed my time in Spain very much, and like the two of you probably do, have fond memories of the country. Madrid was lovely and historical, Zaragoza was intriguing, San Sebastian was unique, and a lot of the little towns in the Castile region, where I spent most of the months I was in Spain, were warm and inviting.

I missed certain things about Los Angeles, though. In particular, I missed Mexican food.

Which is not to say that jamon serrano and gazpacho isn't great stuff, because it is. The flavor and spice of good Mexican cooking is addictive, though. I never realized how much until I was denied access to it.

Even with my love of the cuisine, I'd never heard of El Huarache Azteca until I read about it in Gold's 99.

Traveling down York to find the place, I tried to envision how Vicki and David would ever find themselves in that particular part of LA. Perhaps David would want to surprise Vicki by getting her carseats reupholstered in hot pink leather with the VBD logo? Half a dozen places on York St. can probably take care of that.

Besides not ever hearing of the restaurant, I have to admit, I'd never had a huarache, but generally, when a place names itself after a signature dish, it's a good one.

Sure enough, the huarache was delicious. It's shaped like a french-bread pizza, but the bread part is made of corn tortilla masa and fried to be sturdy enough to hold up against the topping of carne asada, beans, onion, spices and Mexican cheese. Fresh salsas of exotic varieties allow patrons to ladle on extra heat.

On a warm day, the best seats are actually outside, under the misters that stave off the LA heat wave currently parching our city.

There, one can scarf down a huarache and linger for a bit over the last few sips of one of the excellent fresh drinks the restaurant makes. Their horchata is tasty, with the perfect ratio of cinnamon, and their tamarindo is tart without being sour.

Final recommendation: Don't go. I say this not as a slight to the restaurant, because it's a great place, but besides the fact that it's so tiny that your entourage alone would fill the entire dining area, I honestly don't think you'd like it. European palates tend toward more bland food, in my experience. Of course, I'd imagine that you've had some quality Indian food influence your taste buds somewhat, but Mexican food is an entirely different element. It's more of a pure, direct heat. The food is less sauce and stew, and more seared and fried, with something freshly chopped adding contrast.

If you do develop a taste for Mexican food, though, you're a goner who will pine for it long after you've left LA. If anything establishes you as a true Angeleno, that will.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

This little piggy went to eat

Dear Posh and Becks,

It's really hard to imagine Vicki caught in any restaurant called the Oinkster, as she seems the antithesis of the culinary indulgence of pigging out.

So maybe an Oinkster outing, our next stop on the 99, is best reserved for a guy's day out, with Vicki perhaps on tour and David in charge of the boys.

After all, David did mention his love for U.S. culture, and while many debate the premise that the colonies have brought little to the world's cuisine, Oinkster stunningly trumps that argument by elevating the simple pleasures of some classic American dishes to the sublime.

"Slow fast food" is the Oinkster's motto, and the result shows how worthwhile a little extra time can be. That said, you shouldn't have to wait that long, and the comfortable red booth seating in the light and airy dining room makes the delay painless, although the delicious smells emanating from the kitchen build anticipation.

Unable to decide even from the basic menu (less is more at Oinkster, they don't do any dish they can't perfect), I went for a combo of sorts, the daily special Royale, which consisted of a Oinkster burger topped with the specialty of the house, their pastrami, plus applewood-smoked bacon.

The meat was tender and cooked to an exactness that is rare, blending perfectly with the house-made sauce that accompanies the sandwich. It's served in a little paper cup, so you can add as much or as little as you like. A wide variety of other condiments are neatly arranged on a counter tray so people can accessorize their meals as they wish.

As tasty as the Royale was, the meal was further enhanced by an order of Oinkster fries, which they cook Belgian-style (though thankfully, they don't drizzle mayo on top). Fries are my personal weakness, and these were the best I've had in years.

I had no room left for dessert, but they looked beautiful, and what kid doesn't like a sundae or a malt? I'm not talking some chemically engineered frostie-freezie concoction, but something that contains actual calcium. Oinkster's makes their's old-school, with real ice cream.

Final Recommendation: Go. The kids have probably already eaten McDonalds, but now's the time to teach them to slow down a little and enjoy food with flavor.

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Comfort food

Dear Posh and Becks,

It isn't easy moving, and I'm sure you must be stressed at times. I've had a couple of stressful days lately myself.

Anyway, that's actually when it's the perfect time to hit up the next joint on the list of 99.

Don't worry about the neighborhood around Langer's, (unless Vicki perhaps has a need for an extra identity card - Victoria Bardeles? - that can be bought on the cheap) just jump from the limo right into the time warp that is the actual restaurant.

There's something soothing about the clean, yet utterly un-hip interior of the place, a monotony of brown on brown. It's too staid to even be campy retro, and there's something really honest about that.

No one comes to Langer's to be "seen".

What they do come for is the pastrami. It's divine pastrami; it's pastrami that makes vegans give up their religion and take up Atkins instead. It's pastrami that redefines what pastrami is and renders other versions so inferior you'll wonder how you ever ingested that stuff before. It's tender, flavorful, served up on thick slices of hearty rye bread that is the perfect consistency to handle the weight of an ample pastrami serving without falling apart.

The menu is devoted to different versions of the pastrami sandwich, and some are named after movie stars of the Golden age. At Langer's one can easily believe that those versions were really the favorite combinations of those actual stars.

Langer's is a Los Angeles institution. With the recent passing of beloved founder Al Langer, who always refused to move his restaurant to someplace trendier, one can only hope it remains so.

My favorite combination isn't actually on the menu, but it's easily ordered. I get pastrami on rye with Swiss cheese, and I ask for them to grill the sandwich. They make it perfectly every time.

I love the pastrami, but other touches are nice: the Coke refills in the old-style glasses, and the potato pancakes (it's a Jewish deli, and they know their latkes) are my preferred side order, though the thick, crispy fries are excellent.

Final recommendation: Go. If you're ever feeling blue, Langer's is like chicken soup for the tummy.

Saturday, June 23, 2007

Welcome Wagon

Dear Posh and Becks,

I can't imagine Vicki doing too much cooking, so I'm sure you'll eat out at times. Coincidentally, Pulitzer-prize-winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold of the LA Weekly has just put together his list of 99 essential LA restaurants.

You've already checked out one of his top choices, Cut, that steakhouse restaurant of Wolfgang Puck near your new abode in Beverly Hills, but you may be wondering about the other locales.

Fret not. This intrepid reporter is checking out all (the ones I can afford) of them for you.

First up is Casa Bianca.

The cozy restaurant has a classic homey vibe, perfect for taking the kids out to enjoy a good pizza. The tables are small, but Casa Bianca waiters quickly put them together to accommodate larger parties, so there should be plenty of room for your bodyguards to join you at the same table.

Though they serve pasta in numerous concoctions, Gold is effusive in his praise for the Casa Bianca pizza pie, and I have to say, it is a thin crust classic. I had the pepperoni with fresh tomatoes and garlic, and patrons can order from quite a variety of toppings. However, they don't get too oddball or fancy at this place, so don't bother looking for goat cheese or Thai basil.

The college kids from nearby Occidental who frequent the place also seem to make up most of the staff, and they're attentive without hovering.

Final recommendation: Go. Don't just go for the pizza, either. The cannolis are delicious and fresh, as is the Caprese salad.